Wednesday, December 11, 2019

Day 8: Wednesday, December 11, 2019: Falkland Islands

The ship arrived in Port Stanley around 8:00 am. We reported to the theater at 8:40 am to tender to Stanley at 9:00 am. Both Stephen T and I are booked to go on an optional excursion to Bluff Cove to view the Penguins.




We are being tendered to and from the dock. Despite its harbors and long coast line, the Falklands is not a very good port. The water is shallow and tricky to navigate.


Stanley is the capital of the Falklands with a population of only about 2,000. The entire island only has a population of about 3,400 people, although there is a sheep population of almost 500,000.



Stephen T and I are going to take a tour to the Bluff Cove Lagoon to see some penguins.



The island is very British with over 90% speaking English English and about 10% Spanish.


We took a 15 passenger van to a drop off point and then boarded a four person 4x4 to take us across some very rugged countryside to where the penguins reside. This is on the 35,000 acre privately owned Bluff Cove cattle and sheep ranch. It is owned by Hattie and Kevin Kilmartin. Like many of the locals, the Kilmartin's can trace their heritage back to the founding of the Falkland colony in 1842.

On the way to the penguins, we passed through the areas of the 1982 Falkland War between Argentina and the UK. There were many rectangular "plots" throughout the country side. They were uniform in shape, about 15 yards wide and 50 yards long. Brian, the driver told us those were areas where they had cleared of land mines. Apparently, the Argentina forces placed thousands of land mines in preparation for the UK invasion. They only started removing them 5 or 6 years ago and planned to have it completed by the end of this year.

The penguins were observed were of three varieties, the Gentoo, Magellanic and the King Penguins.

The Gentoo Penguins were the most numerous with over 1,000 breeding couples on the ranch we visited and over 120,000 pairs on the island. They are 30" tall, weigh 12-15 pounds and can live 10-12 years. They can reach depths of 600 feet and stay submerged for 5-7 minutes. They don't migrate and are classified as "near threatened".

The Magellanic are also called "Jackass" Penguins due to their characteristic bray. There are about 100,000 pairs on the Falklands. They stand about 24" tall, weigh about 10 pounds and live for 10-12 years. They can dive to a depth of 300 feet. They do migrate to northern Argentina and southern Brazil in April.

The King Penguins are the second largest penguin species, next to the Emperor Penguin. They stand 36" tall, weigh 30 pounds and have a life expectancy of 30 years. There are about 1,000 pairs in the Falklands. We observed perhaps 15 pairs at the ranch we visited. They can dive to a depth of 750 feet. At the end of the 19th century, they were close to extinction, but have recovered and are no longer consided endangered.














Lots of sea gulls and turkey vultures hanging around just in case an opportunity to snatch an egg or chick might arise. The penguins sitting on the nests warned them off as they wondered through the hatchery.















Bluff Cove is a relatively bleak place. I did find my souvenir rock.










Erick and his 4x4. Not comfortable at all, but this contraption could go ANYWHERE!


Upon returning to Stanley, we walked from on end of the business district to the other and back. It took almost 15 minutes.

Whale jaw bones



We ran into Stephen H who was about to start his Falkland Island War tour. There were some sea lions sun bathing on the dock.







I did find a penguin "old fashion" goblet.


My Bluff Cove rock.


Tomorrow is another sea day. Then we make a technical stop at Puerto Williams on Friday before we sailing around Cape Horn.